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The Macallan ‘Ruby’ (2013, OB, 43%)

And here we are with the last Macallan of the 1824 series: Macallan Ruby. The nice dark color says that probably there are ex-sherry casks more ‘active’. Moreover – at least judging by the price, more or less double that Sienna, which according to the most recent declination of Macallan’s rhetoric should be induced not by age but by the quality of the barrels – in all probability the share of very expensive European oak will be present in more massive proportions.

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N: it appears immediately ‘fresher’ than Sienna, but – naturally – different: there is certainly more red fruit, more in evidence (especially strawberries and cherries, in spirit also – there is something chocolaty: mon cheri?). Fortified and fruity: there are no traces of vanilla, while it definitely seems more spicy than the three companions (cinnamon and cloves). Confirmed the initial sensation, the European oak definitely makes itself felt. It seems a very compact, rich and massive nose, even difficult to dissect all the way through; orange peel? Candied orange? Even a little eucalyptus?

P: very intense and without doubt belonging to the sherry monster category, even if with a very little monstrous gradation. The European casks still leave a clear mark: you can feel the tannins very much, sometimes a little bit aft. The quality is high, however, there are bowls of red fruits and prunes, as well as at times (the opinion was shared by many participants in the tasting) reminiscent of some aggressive rums. Lots of chocolate, even a little bit of coffee base, still orange peel; it is not at all pimply, if we had to bet we would also say that it is younger than Sienna. On the finish the spices (cloves above all, pepper) are back.

F: very consistent with the palate: red fruit, woody notes, bitter chocolate. Coffee.

Very good, heavily sherried and for this reason rather different from the three standard companions, more round and ‘elegant’ and with an obvious influence of American oak; this Ruby, after all, is still a high quality whisky, and it manages to look like a sherry monster despite the reduced abv, which doesn’t affect the body. We’ll give it 88/100: it costs almost twice as much as Sienna (£120 against £65), and frankly, it seems a bit too much. Ok, if you buy Macallan you’re buying a luxury brand, so in a certain way you’re ready to pay more, but if we had to choose between the two (which, although different, seem comparable in terms of overall quality) we’d go straight for Sienna (which also seems more mature, ‘older’ – oh yeah, but age counts for nothing). However, the overall impression of this new series of Macallan – leaving aside any consideration that doesn’t touch the quality of the distillate alone – is definitely positive.

Recommended soundtrack: Kaiser Chiefs – Ruby.

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